Žirje, the island and its mysteries

You’ve heard it before, a real one-horse town and here the horse is dead, or is it? One and a half hours by ferry from Šibenik (see below for the timetable), after stopping in at Kaprije, not exactly Capri, but full of friendly faces and expensive boats, you wonder what the fuss is all about.

The island of Kaprije with a wave from the bathers
The island of Kaprije with a wave from the bathers

I have 2 hours to spend here and after a few minutes I’m starting to wonder whether the best option would be the bar. But I push on and take a swim in turquoise water where you don’t even need goggles to see the bottom. Cleaner, purer you would be hard pressed to find. Ok, 30 minutes done.

You don't need goggles to see the bottom
You don’t need goggles to see the bottom

I take a walk. And I notice something really strange, something out of sync with my sensibility when I look at the cars. It doesn’t take much but I challenge you to find the missing link.

Spot the mistake
Spot the mistake

There must be more. I see a map with some Roman ruins or such like to explore but it’s the population of 103 people on the island, the crystal clear water, the furthest point in the archipelago and the peace that is to be found here, that are the draw cards. A big island, lots of olive, fig and cherry trees and plenty of fish in that surrounding sea, that keep the locals busy, if that’s what the pace can possibly be called. But hey, the internet works great.





Jadrolinja takes you there in 1,40 hours from Šibenik from 29 May – 27 Sept

Mondays to Saturdays 11.30, 16.30; Sundays and public holidays 11.30, 19.10

Returns: Mon – Sat 14.00, 20.00; Sun and public holidays 17.00 and 21.00

Cost: 46 kuna return (€6 approx.);

Tickets from Jadrolinja office on the main drag down at the shoreline or at a little office to the left of the bus station close to the ferry departure point.

Kaprije: Same as above but 1,20 hours

Departures: Mon – Sat 11.30, 16.30; Sun and public holidays 11.30 and 19.10

Returns:  Mon – Sat 14.30, 20.30; Sun and public holidays 17.30 and 21.30

Accommodation: Zirje; Kaprije


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