We leave Šibenik behind us in our ferry that takes a 20-minute ride to the island of Jadrija. Difficult information to find out for some reason but here’s the timetable:
After you’ve paid your 12 kuna (€1,80 approx) you can sit back and enjoy the scenery of the Dalmatian archipelago with its rugged, karstic cliffs, tunnels blasted through rock now closed with mesh, fortresses, houses and castles. When the water gets shallower, blue changes to turquoise and it’s there where your destination lies.
Why all these cars? You hardly need them except maybe to get here? Google Maps solves the mystery. There is a bridge that links this island to the mainland. The pine forests lend welcome shade to this sweltering day and the pristine water of the Adriatic (on this side of it, of course) beckons you for a cool down. Not sure whether it’s the effect of my morning meditation or what, but turning down the pace to island time is what automatically happens.
Wandering along the walkways of this picture-postcard setting, I wonder whether it’s a place for the rich and famous since the mostly private holiday homes are large and luxurious, with a few smaller ones tucked in between. No hotels, very few apartments for rent, very few restaurants and a perfect place for families.
After a lengthy swim, what could be better than a chilled glass of wine in a bar called H2O with padded seating and huge umbrellas overlooking the sea. I drink it all in and sip quietly away when the waiter says,
“My boss would like to offer you another glass, on the house of course.”
“I would love another glass.”
I wave at the owner and offer him my best smile.
That’s Dalmatia for you, men that generously offer you drinks with no ulterior motive in mind, or maybe I just escaped in time…
At the end of the Soviet-style concrete beach shacks, is another little bar where Jasna, the lady who owns it, serves you with motherly kindness, hanging up your sarong so that it dries and offering you a place to change in her ‘cabin’. Hunger pangs drive you to the only real restaurant which consists of tables and chairs under those huge pine trees. The wine is cold Debit, a little salty, a little herbaceous, a little wet stone, all of which go very well with the most delicious sea bass. The latter and other fish are charged in a unique kind of way, by the kilogram and this one together with the half litre of wine, fries and salad set us back less than €20 for two. It’s a steal.
Links and info:
Jadrija ferry – see timetable above; departs from Šibenik’s main quay in front of all the bars; cost approx. €1,80 one way.
Bar H2O – as you alight from the ferry, turn to the left where the main beach is. This joint’s the best of the lot.
Restaurant ? – couldn’t find a name but as you step off the ferry, turn left and just ask anyone.