It’s been a full 24 hours since I arrived yesterday from Split Airport by JAM Taxi which took an hour and could have cost me only €13.75 if there had been 3 more to share it but since I was the only passenger, €55 was what it cost. Fairly cheap at the price if you consider the distance.
And now I start wondering why I chose to come back here after almost two years. The previous time I was wined and dined by the locals for being part of Dhar Media’s Discover Croatia project. Here’s the video: https://youtu.be/mDh0erDSuaA
Today I’m the tourist and seeing this town from a different angle. My apartment is in a real city block amongst ordinary people who live and work here. It’s hot as hell but there is air conditioning which I hesitate to use. My hostess is an absolute sweetheart who can’t share enough knowledge with me and goes out of her way to make my life easier.
I start my day at the open air market where I buy a bunch of veg and fruit for as little as €4,50. I feel proud walking back with my stash, as if I had done something to earn this. The cappuccino tastes like heaven and the €1,20 that sets me back only widens the smile on the waitresses face.
No rental car, no minibus to hop into, just me and my feet hitting the sidewalk and feeling the pulse of Dalmatia. It’s slow, service is slow which means one thing, keep calm and breathe. Take your time, look at the people and remember somewhere in your Finnish life there existed a phenomenon called conversation. And they never run out….
The beach is Banj. The water is clear and cooling, the beer is cold and expensive (for Croatia, that is i.e. €2,55 or so for 0,5 l) and when I point out that the price on the bill is more than the price on the menu, I get a most sincere reply that the menus have not been changed after the price increase. I believe them because they seem genuine in their apologies.
I walk home through the Old Town. The marble is slippery transporting residents and tourists since 1066. More of this later.