‘Fusion confusion’ is how the chefs at this trendy restaurant in not-so-trendy Telliskivi describe their food.
They change the menu as the mood suits them, every month or so and of course depending on the popularity of the dishes. I’m glad to hear this since I would go back time after time for both the starter and main course I had there.
The noodle dish is a cross between Ramen and Pho soup, their own version of herbs, seafood or meat and homemade noodles in a broth that complements the ingredients perfectly. My pork belly version (€8) has a smokey, earthy taste to it while my companion’s prawn one (€8) is light and fresh. They ask us whether we want coriander, we reply ‘of course!’ with furrowed brows. Who wouldn’t want it? Both are brimming with taste and the portions are in ample supply.
I am somewhat satiated after that but it doesn’t stop me from ordering a second course ‘just to try, you know.’ And I’m glad I did. The marinated seafood (€12) consisting of prawns, mussels and octopus is warm and full of flavour and the bed of salad with basil vinaigrette is so crispy and good it pops off the plate. A’s duck (€13) is done to perfection, a rosé colour with a slight sweetness from the oriental plum sauce and the parsnip purée it’s served on.
My choice of Oraison Côtes-du-Rhône goes down smoothly and comes at great value, €22.
The two head chefs, Igor and Roman, have a history of fine dining and it shows. Kolm Sibulat is the baby brother of their first successful venture Moon, also in an off-the-beaten-track location. In their own words, “It’s easier to raise the second child and so we decided to go ahead and broaden our horizons since even the most talented artist gets bored painting the sea over and over again.”
Ambience: Homely, child-friendly
Décor: chic and clever
Wine list: 7/10 (I would have preferred more of a sparkling wine collection)
Recommendation: When in Tallinn, go!
Reservations: A must